Conversion kit instructions
All kits-To remove parts from the base use a sharp blade or Xuron style cutter to cut the supports loose from the bottom of the parts. Remove the parts from the sprues and then, if they seem slightly tacky, set them in sunlight for a brief period until the tackiness goes away. Note-The longer they are exposed to UV the more brittle they will become so do not leave them for a long period.
Failure to do the above risks breaking the parts, especially the clips.
Once you have trimmed along the bottom edge of the parts the cab and nose are removed by gently twisting back and forth until it breaks free. It may take a few gentle twists to free them, so don’t rush it. You can break some of the supports free by pressing against them through the opening in the back of the cab and nose, making it easier to twist loose.
SD10-The air filters should release similarly. Just trim around the outer edges then twist to remove.
SD10-The air tanks have a couple supports on the piping. Carefully trim these before removing from the base. These parts are fragile so take your time.
SD10-Remove the ladder the same way.
The parts may need a small amount of cleanup along the bottom edges where the supports held the part during manufacture. Use a fine sanding stick or similar as there should be little clean up.
SD10-The cab windows should be sanded with fine grit sandpaper and then treated with a coat of clear to restore their transparency.
SD10-Dimples are provided on the nose for locating the holes for the ladder. Use a .030 bit for the final hole size. You may want to start with a smaller bit to be sure you are centered in the dimples.
The parts should be primed before painting. Wiping them down with isopropyl alcohol prior to priming is recommended.
The “plug” portion of the number boards, the part that serves as a light pipe, will need to be trimmed to fit the angle of the boards. This does not need to be precise. Or, you can simply trim the plug shorter
Thanks for your order and I hope you enjoy your kit!